Divas on a Dime: Mother's Roast Potatoes
By Patti Diamond
My Mother's Roast Potatoes: Shaken, not Stirred
My mother was not what anyone could call an enthusiastic cook. She cooked because her family insisted on needing dinner every evening. But she could make a roast potato better than anyone.
Her potatoes came out of the oven deeply golden and crisp outside, with soft, fluffy centers. They were flavorful enough to eat just as they were, no butter, toppings or gravy required. Although, if you enjoy gilding lilies, a little gravy never hurts.
Shaken, not stirred, and roasted to a magnificent crunch. PHOTO CREDIT: www.JasonCoblentz.com
Like many British cooks, Mom began with russet potatoes, peeled and cut into generous chunks. She boiled them until nearly cooked through, drained them and gave the covered pot a vigorous shake. That rough treatment wasn't incidental. It created ragged, floury edges that became extraordinarily crisp in the oven.
Her seasoning was salt. Pepper was considered "spicy" to her cautious British palate. My American father compensated by adding enough pepper at the table to make his potatoes blackened.
Her big trick was adding a little baking soda to the cooking water. The alkaline water helps soften the potatoes' outer surfaces and release more starch. Shaking creates a craggy coating that becomes wonderfully crunchy in the oven.
Moderate heat matters, too. Starting potatoes in cold water helps the centers and outsides cook evenly. Bring them to a boil over medium-high heat, then reduce the heat promptly. High heat can leave the centers lagging while the outsides soften excessively and begin breaking apart. Remember this when making mashed potatoes, too; unevenly cooked potatoes is what causes lumps.
Finally, let the potatoes steam dry, preheat the oil and leave room between pieces. Crowd them and they steam politely. Give them elbow room and they develop bronzed, brittle shells that make people stand there and eat them right off the baking pan.
MOM'S MAGNIFICENT ROAST POTATOES
Yield: 4-6 servings
Total Time: 1 hour 30 minutes
3-4 pounds russet potatoes
1 tablespoon kosher salt, plus more for serving
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/4 cup olive oil, divided
Black pepper, optional
Preheat oven to 400 F.
Peel potatoes and cut them into 2-inch chunks. Place in a large pot and add enough cold water to cover them by 1 inch. Add kosher salt and baking soda. The water should be well seasoned. Think ocean water, not bathwater.
Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, reduce heat and simmer 10 to 15 minutes, until nearly cooked through but not falling apart. A knife should meet just a little resistance in the center.
Meanwhile, pour 3 tablespoons olive oil onto a large, rimmed baking sheet. Place it in the oven for about 10 minutes, until the oil is hot and shimmering.
Drain potatoes thoroughly and let them steam dry in the colander for 2 minutes. Return them to the pot with lid and shake vigorously. Like James Bond's martini, they should be shaken, not stirred. Their surfaces should become rough, floury and slightly mashed around the edges.
Drizzle with the remaining tablespoon olive oil and turn gently to coat. Carefully transfer potatoes to the hot baking sheet; they should sizzle on contact. Turn each piece in the oil and arrange with space between them. Give them a liberal sprinkle of salt.
Roast without disturbing for 25 minutes. Turn the pieces and roast 15 to 20 minutes longer, or until deeply browned, crisp and audibly crunchy. Optional: Broil them a few minutes for extra color and crunch.
Serve hot, after sampling at least one directly from the pan for quality control purposes. This is both wise and necessary.
Lifestyle expert Patti Diamond is the penny-pinching, party-planning, recipe developer and content creator of the website Divas On A Dime — Where Frugal, Meets Fabulous! Visit Patti at www.divasonadime.com and join the conversation on Facebook at DivasOnADimeDotCom. Email Patti at divapatti@divasonadime.com
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